Uyini Umehluko Wangempela Phakathi Kosilika Oshibhile Nobizayo?
Ingabe udidekile ngenani elikhulu lemikhiqizo kasilika? Lo mhlahlandlela uzokufundisa indlela yokubona usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu, ukuze uzizwe uqiniseka ekuthengeni kwakho okulandelayo.Usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu[^1] ichazwa umuzwa wayo, ukucwebezela, nesisindo. Usilika obizayo uzwakala uthambile ngendlela emangalisayo futhi ubushelelezi, unokukhanya okuthambile kweparele, futhi usinda ngenxa yokuphakama okuphezulu.Umama ubale[^2]. Osilika abashibhile bavamise ukuzizwa bebushelelezi kancane, banokukhanya okufana nepulasitiki, futhi bazacile.
Kungase kubonakale kuyinkimbinkimbi, kodwa ukutshela usilika omuhle kokubi kulula uma wazi ukuthi yini okufanele uyibheke. Njengomuntu osebenze nosilika cishe iminyaka engama-20, ngingakukhombisa amaqhinga alula okuthenga okuhlakaniphile. Ake sihlukanise izici ezibalulekile ukuze ukwazi ukuthenga ngokuzethemba futhi uthole ikhwalithi yokunethezeka ekufanele.
Ungabona kanjani ukuthi usilika uyikhwalithi ephezulu?
Uma esitolo noma upheqa ku-inthanethi, kodwa wonke usilika ubukeka ngendlela efanayo. Uhlukanisa kanjani okuhle nokubi? Udinga ukuhlola okulula ukuze uhlole ikhwalithi.Ungabona usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu ngezinto ezintathu ezibalulekile: ukuthinta kwawo, ukukhanya kwawo, nesisindo sawo (uMama). Usilika wekhwalithi yangempela uzwakala uthambile futhi upholile, unokukhanya okufana neparele okushintsha ekukhanyeni, futhi uzwakala umkhulu, awuntengi. Iphinde imelane nokushwabana uma uyihlanganisa.Kuwo wonke umsebenzi wami e-Wonderful Silk, ngisize amakhasimende amaningi ukuthi aqonde lo mehluko. Abaningi bayamangala lapho beqala ukuzwa usilika wethu kamama ongu-22 ngemva kokusetshenziselwa ezinye izindlela ezishibhile. Umehluko awubonakali nje; kuyinto ongayizwa ngempela. Ukukusiza ube uchwepheshe, ake sibheke lezi zivivinyo eduze kakhulu.
IUkuhlola Ukuthinta[^3]
Lena indlela elula yokwahlulela usilika.Usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu[^1] inomuzwa oyingqayizivele. Kufanele ithambe ngendlela emangalisayo futhi ibe bushelelezi, ngokuthinta okupholile esikhumbeni sakho. Uma uyigijimisa ezandleni zakho, igeleza njengoketshezi. Iphinde ibe nokunwebeka kancane; uma uyidonsa ngobumnene, kufanele ibe nokupha okuncane bese ibuyela esimweni sayo. Usilika wekhwalithi ephansi noma i-polyester satin, ngakolunye uhlangothi, ingazizwa iqinile, i-waxy, noma ishelela ngokweqile ngendlela yokwenziwa. Ukuhlolwa okuhle kwasekhaya ukuhlolwa kokushwabana. Bamba ikhona likasilika bese ulihlikihla esandleni sakho imizuzwana embalwa.Usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu[^1] izoba nokushwabana okuncane, kuyilapho usilika oshibhile uzobamba ama-crease kalula.
ILuster and Weave Test[^4]
Okulandelayo, bheka ukuthi usilika ukuveza kanjani ukukhanya.Usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu[^1], ikakhulukaziUsilika kamalibhele[^5], inokucwebezela okuhle, okuyinkimbinkimbi, hhayi ukukhanya okulula. Kufanele ibukeke njengeparele, enokukhanya okuthambile okubonakala kuvela ngaphakathi kwendwangu. Njengoba uhambisa indwangu, ukukhanya kufanele kudlale ngaphesheya kwendawo, kudala izindawo zokukhanya nesithunzi. Lokhu kungenxa yokuthi unxantathu wemicu kasilika ihlanza ukukhanya ngama-engeli ahlukene. Ama-satin okwenziwa, ngokuphambene, anokukhanya okuyisicaba, okumhlophe, nokugqame ngokweqile okubukeka ngendlela efanayo kuwo wonke ama-engeli. Futhi, hlola i-weave. Indwangu kasilika enhle izoba ne-tight, i-weave ehambisanayo ngaphandle kwamaphutha abonakalayo noma ama-snags.
| Isici | Usilika Osezingeni eliphezulu | Usilika Wekhwalithi Ephansi noma Umgunyathi |
|---|---|---|
| Thinta | Ithambile, ibushelelezi, ipholile, futhi iyanwebeka kancane. | Iqinile, i-waxy, noma ishelela ngokweqile. |
| Luster | Okunemibala eminingi, ukukhazimula kweparele okucwebezelayo. | Ukukhanya okuyisicaba, okumhlophe, okuyingxenye eyodwa. |
| Imibimbi | Imelana nokushwabana futhi bushelelezi kalula. | Ishwabana kalula futhi ibambe ama-creases. |
Iyiphi ikhwalithi engcono kakhulu kasilika?
Uke wezwa amagama afana ne-Mulberry, Charmeuse, nomama, kodwa asho ukuthini? Kuyadida. Ufuna nje ukuthenga usilika ongcono kakhulu, kodwa i-jargon yenza kube nzima ukuqhathanisa.Usilika wekhwalithi engcono kakhulu emhlabeni wonke u-100%Usilika kamalibhele[^5] ngokuphakamaUmama ubale[^2]. Ukhuliswe ekuthunjweni ekudleni okuqinile kwamahlamvu kamalibhele, iBombyx mori[^6]Isibungu sikasilika sikhiqiza imicu kasilika ende kunazo zonke, enamandla kunazo zonke, futhi efanayo kakhulu, yakhe indwangu kasilika engenakuqhathaniswa, ewubukhazikhazi.
Ngihlale ngitshela amakhasimende ami ukuthi uma efuna okungcono kakhulu, impendulo ihlala njaloUsilika kamalibhele[^5]. Ukunakekelwa nokulawula okungena ekukhiqizeni kwawo kubangela izinga lekhwalithi amanye amasilika angeke afane nawo. Kodwa ukuze uqonde ngokugcwele ukuthi kungani ingcono kakhulu, udinga futhi ukuqonda isisindo sayo, esilinganisa ngo-Momme.
Kungani Usilika Kamalibhele Ubusa Ngokuphakeme
Imfihlo yokuthiUsilika kamalibhele[^5] ukuphakama kulele ekukhiqizweni kwayo. I-silkworm, ngokwesayensi eyaziwa ngokuthiBombyx mori[^6], bakhuliswa endaweni elawulwayo. Baphakelwa ukudla okukhethekile kwamaqabunga esihlahla sikamalibhele. Le nqubo yokucophelela iqinisekisa ukuthi imicu kasilika abayiphotha ukuze benze imifece yabo mide ngendlela engavamile, imhlophe qwa futhi iwugqinsi. Lapho le micu emide ilukwa ibe yindwangu, yenza into ebushelelezi ngendlela emangalisayo, eqinile futhi ehlala isikhathi eside. Ngokuphambene, “usilika wasendle” uvela ezimpethuni ezidla amaqabunga ahlukahlukene, okuphumela ekubeni kube nemicu emifushane, emincane efanayo engathambile noma eqinile. Yingakho uma utshala imali ku-100%Usilika kamalibhele[^5], utshala imali esicongweni esiphelele sekhwalithi kasilika.
Iqhaza likaMama Kwikhwalithi
I-Momme (mm) iyunithi yesisindo yaseJapane manje eseyindinganiso yokulinganisa ukuminyana kukasilika. Kucabange njengokubala kwentambo ukotini. Inombolo ye-Momme ephakeme isho ukuthi indwangu isebenzisa usilika owengeziwe ngemitha-skwele, okuyenza ibe nzima, iminyene, futhi ihlale isikhathi eside. Ngenkathi usilika we-Momme okhanyayo ulungele izikhafu ezithambile, ngaphezuluUmama ubale[^2] abalulekile ezintweni ezibona ukusetshenziswa okwengeziwe, njengama-pillowcase namabhonethi. Kule mikhiqizo, ngivame ukuncoma ukuthi ngiqale ngo-19 Momme, kodwa 22 noma 25 Momme unikeza okuhlangenwe nakho okunethezeka kakhulu futhi kuzohlala isikhathi eside ngokunakekelwa okufanele.
| Umama (mm) | Izici | Ukusetshenziswa Okuvamile |
|---|---|---|
| 8-16 | Ilula, inomoya, imvamisa icwebile. | Ama-scarves, ama-linings, ama-blouses athambile. |
| 17-21 | Izinga lezimpahla zokulala nekhwalithi. | Ama-pillowcase, amaphijama, izingubo zokugqoka. |
| 22-30+ | Okunethezeka kakhulu; inzima, i-opaque, futhi ihlala isikhathi eside kakhulu. | Izingubo zokulala zikanokusho[^7], izingubo ezisezingeni eliphezulu, izembatho. |
Yiziphi izinhlobo ezine zikasilika?
Ngale kwe-Mulberry, ubona ezinye izinhlobo ezifana ne-Tussah ne-Eri. Uyini umehluko? Lokhu kwengeza olunye ungqimba lokudideka. Udinga nje ukwazi ukuthi yini okufanele uyikhethele umkhiqizo wekhwalithi.Nakuba kunezinhlobo eziningi zikasilika, ngokuvamile ziwela ezinhlotsheni ezine eziyinhloko: I-Mulberry, iTussah, i-Eri, ne-Muga. I-mulberry iyikhwalithi evamile futhi ephakeme kakhulu. Ezinye ezintathu zaziwa ngokuthi “amasilika asendle,” njengoba ekhiqizwa iminyundu engalinywa.
Eminyakeni yami engu-20 embonini kasilika, ngisebenze ngezindwangu eziningi, kodwa ukugxila kwami bekulokhu kuhlinzeka amakhasimende ami okungcono kakhulu. Kungakho kwa-Wonderful Silk, cishe sisebenzisa ngokukhethekileyoUsilika kamalibhele[^5]. Nakuba usilika wasendle unobuhle bawo obuhlukile, awakwazi ukufana nokuthamba okungaguquki, amandla, nokushelela okulindelwe amakhasimende ethu emkhiqizweni kanokusho. Ake sihlole kafushane lezi zinhlobo ezine eziyinhloko ukuze ubone ukuthi kungani i-Mulberry iyinketho ekhethwayo yezimpahla ze-premium.
Iqhawe Ebusayo: Kamalibhele Silk
Njengoba sesixoxile,Usilika kamalibhele[^5] izinga legolide. Ihlanganisa cishe amaphesenti angama-90 kasilika emhlabeni. Ikhiqizwe ngabakwaBombyx mori[^6]isibungu sikasilika, imicu yawo mide, ifana, futhi ngokwemvelo imhlophe qwa. Lokhu kuvumela ukudaya ngisho futhi kuphumela endwangu kasilika ebushelelezi, eqinile kakhulu etholakalayo. Iwukuphela kukasilika okhiqizwa izikelemu ezitshalwayo, yingakho izinga lawo lingaguquguquki futhi liphakeme. Uma uthenga umkhiqizo ofana nomcamelo kasilika noma ibhonethi yezinwele, lolu wuhlobo lukasilika olufunayo.
I-Wild Silks
Ezinye izinhlobo ezintathu zivame ukuhlanganiswa ndawonye “njengamasilika asendle” ngenxa yokuthi iminyundu ayifuywa futhi ihlala endaweni yazo yemvelo.
- I-Tussah Silk[^8]:Ikhiqizwa uhlobo oluhlukile lwemibungu kasilika edla amaqabunga e-oki. Lo usilika unemicu emifushane, eqinile kanye nombala wemvelo osagolide noma onsundu. Ayithambeki njengeUsilika kamalibhele[^5] futhi kunzima kakhulu ukudaya.
- Eri Silk[^9]:Eyaziwa nangokuthi "usilika wokuthula" ngoba iminyundu ivunyelwe ukuphuma emifeceni yayo ngaphambi kokuba usilika uvunwe. Imicu mifishane futhi inoboya obufana nekotini, okwenza ingabi bushelelezi kakhulu kuneUsilika kamalibhele[^5].
- I-Muga Silk[^10]:Lo silika wasendle oyivelakancane nomba eqolo ukhiqizwa iminyundu e-Assam, eNdiya. Iyaziwa ngokucwebezela kwayo kwemvelo okusagolide nokuqina kwayo ngokwedlulele, kodwa ukubukeka kwayo okuqinile kuyenza ingafaneleki ukusetshenziswa okuthambile njengama-pillowcase.
Uhlobo lukasilika Ukudla kwe-Silkworm Izici ze-Fiber Ukusetshenziswa Okuyinhloko I-mulberry Amahlamvu kamalibhele Inde, ibushelelezi, iyunifomu, imhlophe qwa Izingubo zokulala zikanokusho[^7], imvunulo UThusa I-Oak namanye amaqabunga Mfishane, kakhudlwana, umbala osagolide wemvelo Izindwangu ezinzima, amabhantshi Eri UCastor uyahamba Okufushane, okunoboya, okuminyene, okumhlophe okumhlophe Amatshali, izingubo zokulala Muga USom & Soalu bayahamba Igolide elimahhadla, eliqinile, elingokwemvelo Izingubo zomdabu zaseNdiya
Isiphetho
Ekugcineni, umehluko phakathi kukasilika oshibhile nobizayo wehlela emthonjeni, isisindo, nomuzwa. Ikhwalithi ephezuluUsilika kamalibhele[^5] nokungaphezuluUmama ubale[^2] inikeza ukuthamba okungenakuqhathaniswa, ukuqina, nokunethezeka.
[^1]: Ukuqonda izici zikasilika wekhwalithi ephezulu kungakusiza wenze izinqumo zokuthenga unolwazi. [^2]: Funda mayelana nokubala kukaMama ukuze uqonde ukuthi kuthinta kanjani ikhwalithi kasilika nokuqina. [^3]: Ingcweti kokuhlolwa kokuthinta ukuze ubone kalula usilika wekhwalithi ephezulu uma uthenga. [^4]: Hlola lokhu kuhlola ukuze uqonde ukuthi usilika ubonisa kanjani ukukhanya kanye nekhwalithi yakho yokuluka. [^5]: Zitholele ukuthi kungani usilika kamulberry uyindinganiso yegolide ngekhwalithi kasilika kanye nenqubo yawo yokukhiqiza eyingqayizivele. [^6]: Funda nge-Bombyx mori silkworm nendima yayo ekukhiqizeni usilika wezinga eliphezulu. [^7]: Thola ukuthi kungani usilika kuyisinqumo esikhethwayo sokulala okunethezeka kanye nezinzuzo zako. [^8]: Funda mayelana nokukhiqizwa kwe-Tussah Silk nezici zayo ezihlukile uma kuqhathaniswa nosilika kaMulberry. [^9]: Zitholele izici ezihlukile ze-Eri Silk kanye nokusetshenziswa kwayo kwezindwangu. [^10]: Hlola ukutholakala okungavamile nezici ze-Muga Silk, uhlobo oluhlukile lukasilika wasendle.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Aug-12-2025